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Tiling Tips

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  • Step One
    1. Check all pallets/boxes, that were purchased was correctly invoiced & delivered or received in terms of quantity and quality.
    2. Check all references on the boxes are the same with regard production dates (if there is one) as well as calibre & shading/tonality.
    3. Check that sufficient product has been purchased to complete the whole job, inclusive of cuttings, breakages & waste. The distributor cannot be held liable for shortages as new batches may have arrived or products have been discontinued by the manufacturer between the time the tiles have been purchased & the time of the tiling job.
    4. Check that the standard of product purchased is suitable for the application (e.g. PEI & MOH’s). Wall tiles not to be laid onto floors. Domestic type products not to be used on high traffic areas. Porous products not to be used in areas where there is frost or freezing conditions.
    5. Allow an appropriate curing/drying timer for “green” cement screeds, plastered walls os slabs before tiling can commence. 28 days is generally the accepted period after cement has been laid.
    6. Check that there is sufficient lighting on site as SABS specification 0107.1996-Para 7.2.7.
  • Step Two
    1. Open 7 to 10 boxes randomly (not necessarily all from one pallet) & check for physical/patent/obvious defects.
    2. Check that all tiles conform to norms/standards/specifications (e.g. SABS,DIN,E Norms etc) with regard to skewness, warping, size variation, dishing or bowing (only applicable to 1 st grade products).
    3. Check if colour/ tonality is an acceptable mix before fixing as no claims will be entertained if tiles have been laid/fixed – these will have been deemed acceptable to lay by the professional tiler or purchaser.
    4. Check that 95% of each square metre of tile has no visible defects from approx. 1.0 metre high above ground level where tiles have been randomly/loosely laid out for inspection.
    5. If all checks have been carried out correctly & found acceptable standards apply, only then should tiling commence.
  • Step Three
    1. Plan tiling and lay out carefully –check where there are and should be movement and expansion joints. Check where the cuttings should be (in less conspicuous places). Check vertical & horizontal levels of walls & floors for straightness.
    2. Prepare the floor properly for either mortar or adhesive fixing methods (as per manufacturer’s instructions or SABS 0107.1996 Code of Practices). Ensure no contaminates exist on surfaces to be tiled that will prevent proper adhesion of tiles (e.g. old painted or bitumen surfaces).
    3. Check that correct adhesives are used – porcelain or fully vitrified tile require more bond strength than semi-vitrified or non-vitrified tiles.
    4. Use skilled tilers, fixers using appropriate cutting & laying tools – these may differ to the type of product being laid & thickness thereof (ceramics vs. terra cotta vs. natural stones/slates, etc).
    5. Do not use “spot method” of tiling while using adhesives or mortar.
    6. Do not walk on tiles during curing/drying process - this will cause irregular movement of tiles causing irregular line & surface finish.
    7. Do not lay 1 st grade tiles with obvious defects such as cooling cracks or blemishes.
  • Step Four
    1. Allow sufficient time after fixing tiles for the drying process of mortar adhesives or adhesive fix, before grouting, allowing for possible efflorescence.
    2. Clean floor & walls thoroughly continuously during tiling & immediately after grouting.
    3. Ensure floors are protected from sand or abrasive materials (such as cement residue from either mortar or grouts) as well as heavy machinery and construction damage after tiling & before handover of total completed job.
    4. Check that correct cleaning materials are used. Some acids can damage the tiled surfaces.
    5. Ensure correct maintenance of floors to ensure long usage thereof